By Maria Kernahan
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Additional resources for A Is for Aspen
After trading some bear stories, Mike shares one about another ferocious arctic beast, the mosquito. “A year ago,” he recalls, “a guy from New Jersey came through Anaktuvuk, intending to do a solo, ten-day trip. Why he chose this place for his first solo-backpacking trip I don’t know. He was worried about bears, but what got to him were the mosquitoes. He spent one night out there and came back. The mosquitoes were unlike anything he’d imagined. They drove him crazy. ” Cool temperatures and a steady, brisk breeze have kept the mosquitoes at bay during my village stopover.
Those behind will then follow their trail, ensuring good hunting for up to a week or more as the herd trickles through. Mike sits in and mostly listens, but now and then Raymond invites him into the conversation. Between the two of them, I learn that some three hundred 22 c h a ng i ng pat h s eople now live in Anaktuvuk. All but a couple dozen are Nunamiut. Nearly p everyone depends on subsistence harvesting—hunting, fishing, trapping, berry picking—to some degree, with caribou still at the center of it all.
Substantial melting of permafrost has already been documented in parts of the Brooks Range and North Slope; in some places huge swaths of tundra have slumped and opened up. That melting leads to the decay of organic material (both plant and animal) that’s been frozen for years, decades, even centuries. The decay, in turn, releases huge amounts of methane, a potent greenhouse gas that contributes to the atmosphere’s warming. The presence of permafrost restricts the escape of surface water, which is why this arctic desert can be so doggoned wet.
A Is for Aspen by Maria Kernahan